{"id":33191,"date":"2017-05-29T10:42:30","date_gmt":"2017-05-29T14:42:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/?p=33191"},"modified":"2017-05-29T10:42:30","modified_gmt":"2017-05-29T14:42:30","slug":"how-to-photograph-the-night-sky","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/how-to-photograph-the-night-sky\/","title":{"rendered":"How To Photograph The Night Sky"},"content":{"rendered":"

It was once a genre that seemed open to only a few with specialized equipment and skill, but digital photography has made it possible for just about everyone to capture the heavens for themselves.<\/p>\n

\"how
Earth below, sky above and camera in hand\u2026 few things are more exciting and rewarding than night sky photography on a moonlit night! Nikon D750, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 19mm, ISO 1600, 8 seconds at f\/3.5.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tools of the Trade:<\/strong>\u00a0 To get started, all you need is a camera<\/a> that can be adjusted manually (all-auto cameras do not work for most nighttime celestial sights), a fast normal or wide-angle lens<\/a> (f\/2.8 or faster) and a solid tripod<\/a> and head<\/a>. That\u2019s it! The gear to which I\u2019ve linked above are my current workhorses for night sky shooting, but there are many other quality choices, so I encourage you to evaluate your needs and reach your own conclusions.<\/p>\n

And don\u2019t forget a flashlight. I prefer using a headlamp with red LEDs to preserve night vision, but a white light will also be useful to help you see on the way to and from your shooting location.<\/p>\n

Setting Up:<\/strong>\u00a0 Once you\u2019ve found a good site, make sure your tripod is locked down firmly before attaching the camera.<\/p>\n

Next you must turn off your auto-focus mechanism and disable your strobe and image stabilization switch (IS on Canon and VR on Nikon, for example) any time your camera is on a tripod.<\/p>\n

Focus:<\/strong>\u00a0 You will need to manually focus your lens to infinity. Do not trust the infinity symbol (\u221e) on the lens, especially if you\u2019ve got an auto focus lens. You can use your viewfinder or live-view to focus on a very distant subject in the daytime or the moon at night. If neither of those is possible, find a medium-bright \u00a0star in the sky and focus on that. Once your focus is set, use gaffer\u2019s tape (or painter\u2019s tape, for example) to tape the focus barrel down so that it won\u2019t move.<\/p>\n

Compose:<\/strong> Now you\u2019re ready to compose the scene\u2026 easier said than done in the dark. Use your flashlight to illuminate the scene while you compose the shot, or you can adjust your composition based on the appearance of your first test shots.<\/p>\n

\"how
Striking scenes can easily be achieved with a strong foreground and a starry night sky. Nikon D750, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 14mm, ISO 2500, 13 sec at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Once you\u2019re happy with the composition, level the camera. Some cameras have an electronic leveler built in, but if yours doesn\u2019t, you can get an inexpensive bubble level<\/a> that attaches to your camera\u2019s hotshoe.<\/p>\n

Adjust the settings:<\/strong>\u00a0 Now you\u2019ll be faced with a profound question: what settings should I use? Unfortunately, there is no single answer, since much depends on the subject, the lighting, the equipment and how you want your image to appear.<\/p>\n

My recommendation is to experiment. Choose a starting aperture, shutter speed and ISO and take an exposure. Now evaluate the image on your camera\u2019s LCD screen and make adjustments to the settings and reshoot until the image appears the way you want.<\/p>\n

For a dark and moonless starry sky you may find that a good starting point is 15 seconds at f\/2.8 with an ISO of 1600. Obviously shots that contain the moon or brightly lit landscapes will require different starting points, so don\u2019t be afraid to experiment.<\/p>\n

Use your histogram\u2014yes, even at night:<\/strong>\u00a0 It\u2019s impossible to determine if your night sky shot is properly exposed by looking at the image on the LCD screen. In fact, often these images will appear quite dark on the screen, and you\u2019ll be tempted to adjust settings to brighten them. The histogram provides the only reliable way to determine proper exposure; this is your best friend on the camera!<\/p>\n

\"how
The histogram is your best indicator of good exposure. Nikon D700, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 14mm, ISO 2000, 15 sec at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The data on the histogram will naturally lie mostly on the left side\u2014it is a dark scene, after all\u2014but you don\u2019t want it to be pegged against the left wall.\u00a0 If it is, that means that you\u2019re losing shadow detail. Adjust your settings to bring the data off of the left wall and you\u2019ll have a sufficiently exposed image.<\/p>\n

A whole universe to shoot:<\/strong>\u00a0 Few photographers pay much attention to the night sky, but it\u2019s filled with wonderful subjects to shoot.<\/p>\n

\"how
Capturing the nearly full moon rising over San Diego Bay required shooting during dusk so the landscape is still somewhat illuminated. Nikon D700, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 24mm, ISO 200, 0.3 sec at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In addition to stars and constellations, there\u2019s also the moon in all its phases, the Milky Way, the zodiacal light, clouds (especially illuminated by moonlight), meteor showers, northern lights, satellites and much more.<\/p>\n

\"how
The northern lights make a colorful and dramatically changing subject for night sky shooters. Nikon D700, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 18mm, ISO 3200, 4 seconds at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Just like any other area of photography, the key to getting the great shots is to understand your subject and be able to anticipate its behavior. It\u2019s frustrating to head out to photograph the Milky Way during the early hours of a beautiful spring night only to learn that the Milky Way is nowhere to be found!<\/p>\n

\"how
The Milky Way poses nicely on a summer night, in this case behind a metallic sculpture of a bighorn sheep. Nikon D700, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens at 24mm, ISO 2500, 15 seconds at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The night sky changes constantly and, fortunately, much of what appears there can be predicted in advance. Get some planetarium software for your computer and play around with it to see what will be available to your camera before heading out into the darkness.<\/p>\n

\"how
Even on a moonlit night stars can be captured trailing across the sky; this image stacks 92 frames shot over about 40 minutes. Nikon D750, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens each at 18mm, ISO 500, 25 sec at f\/3.5.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Image processing:<\/strong>\u00a0 You may think that once you get home and download your images your job is done. Not so fast\u2026 there\u2019s a matter of processing the images to bring out the best in them.<\/p>\n

There is much software out there to do this, of course, but I\u2019ve found that Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop<\/a> allow me to transform the rather bland files produced by a camera into night sky images that are truly stunning to the eye.<\/p>\n

My caution to you is to be gentle with image processing. Its purpose is to bring out the detail and \u201cfeeling\u201d in the photos, not to change the photos into something totally unrelated to reality.\u00a0 A little goes a long way.<\/p>\n

\"how
This meteor shower required 500+ consecutive frames over two hours to produce 11 meteor trails which were then stacked into a single image. Nikon D750, AF-S Nikkor 14-24 f\/2.8G ED lens each at 20mm, ISO 1600, 13 seconds at f\/2.8.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Get shooting!<\/strong>\u00a0 Spend some time under the stars with your camera and I think you\u2019ll agree there are few pastimes that are more relaxing, rewarding and fun. Take your time, enjoy the process, and experiment. With the right gear, preparation and effort you\u2019ll soon be creating spectacular celestial portraits for yourself!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It was once a genre that seemed open to only a few with specialized equipment and skill, but digital photography has made it possible for just about everyone to capture the heavens for themselves. Tools of the Trade:\u00a0 To get started, all you need is a camera that can be adjusted manually (all-auto cameras do […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":165,"featured_media":33198,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[17771,639,645,17770],"tags":[14917,14921,14918,9109,14920,14919],"class_list":["post-33191","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-astrophotography","category-how-to","category-photography-645","category-photography","tag-astro-photography","tag-dennis-mammana","tag-how-to-photography-the-night-sky","tag-night-photography","tag-solar-eclipse","tag-star-photography"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHow To Photograph The Night Sky - Adorama<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"It was once a genre that seemed open to only a few with specialized equipment and skill, but digital photography has made it possible for just about\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/how-to-photograph-the-night-sky\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How To Photograph The Night Sky - 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