{"id":36547,"date":"2017-09-11T08:54:38","date_gmt":"2017-09-11T12:54:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/?p=36547"},"modified":"2022-06-02T15:29:53","modified_gmt":"2022-06-02T19:29:53","slug":"top-10-macro-photography-tips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/top-10-macro-photography-tips\/","title":{"rendered":"Top 15 Macro Photography Tips"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Macro photography<\/strong> has definitely become a very broad genre of the art form, thanks to the ability of today\u2019s cameras\u2014from smartphones to professional cameras\u2014to make capturing macro shots as easy as clicking a button or two. However, the results may not always be what you desired.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Before learning to take your macro photography to the next level, let\u2019s talk about what macro photography is and how it is achieved.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is Macro Photography?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Macro<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Macro photography is a unique form of photography that involves photographing small objects to make them look life-sized or larger in the photo. The usual subjects include flowers and small insects. It lets us see objects we don\u2019t normally get to see up close with the naked eye. This type of photography is also used for bringing out details in jewelry and other inanimate objects<\/a>. It is a widely used art form that is incorporated in almost every one of the types of photography<\/a>. You’ll see it in travel, portraiture<\/a>, action<\/a>, or even event photography, both in the film and digital age.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A true macro shot depends on the level of magnification. The ideal magnification is at 1:1, where a 1-inch object is also projected at 1-inch on the camera sensor. When projected at half life-size, the same 1-inch object would take up just a half inch of the sensor and would be at 1:2 magnification. However, true macro is anything that has been magnified at a ratio of 1:1 or higher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Understanding macro photography terms<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"a
Image via Shutterstock<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\u201cMagnification\u201d and \u201cworking distance\u201d are both important terms in macro or close-up photography. But what do these words actually mean, and how do they help you shoot stunning macro shots? Let\u2019s dig a little deeper into each term.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Magnification<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Understanding how big or small your subject will look like on your camera sensor is an essential aspect of macro photography. Magnification is the value you get when you compare your subject\u2019s size as seen by the sensor to its actual size. A 1:1 ratio simply means that your subject has reached \u201clife-size\u201d magnification. There\u2019s also \u201chalf-life-size\u201d magnification, which refers to 1:2 magnification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Working distance<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Working distance is the distance between the front of your lens and your nearest subject. Six inches (15 cm) is perfect if you want to shoot small subjects. Camera lenses will get the smallest working distance at 1:1 magnification. They can even achieve a larger distance if they have longer focal lengths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

How to take macro photos<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Nowadays, both point-and-shoot cameras, mirrorless cameras, and DSLRs<\/a> have a built-in macro mode that helps users capture significantly closer shots of an object from an observable distance. The camera automatically adjusts lens elements and moves them closer to the sensor to best suit close focusing. It does so without the need for extra lenses or macro tubes. Of course this cannot be considered true macro, because to achieve that you will need a dedicated macro lens. Alternatively, you can get an accessory that will enable your camera or lens to shoot macro.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There\u2019s also an option to “fake” a macro by cropping your photo to make your subject appear more magnified. However, since the digital output from most cameras (except for those with full-frame sensors) are not as large as on film, resorting to such measures will usually result in reduced image quality, which is why cropping does not yield desirable results.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To achieve true macro photography, there is a wide range of macro lenses available for select digital cameras that are optimized for achieving as much as 10x magnification for professional macro images. But even with the right gear, pro macro photography can still be hard to execute without knowing how to properly adjust your camera settings to suit your shooting requirements, or without knowing how to create a more favorable shooting situation before clicking the shutter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro shooting may now seem to be more complicated than you thought it would be, but it really isn\u2019t\u2014especially not after using some of our top tips for capturing the best macro photographs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Top 15 Tips for Macro Photography<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #1: Get a good macro lens<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Macro<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

While today\u2019s cameras offer a macro mode in the menu or analog settings, they don\u2019t offer as much as 1:1 magnification. If you want magazine or gallery-quality macro pictures, you\u2019ll need to purchase a dedicated macro lens<\/a> for your camera. There\u2019s a wide array of macro lenses<\/a> on the market that offers 1:1 magnification and above for your camera. You might be taken aback by some of their price tags, but they\u2019re definitely worth the investment for greater quality macro shots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enthusiasts have a few great options, including extension tubes and reversing lenses. A standard camera lens with extension tubes on it offers some magnification, while a reversed lens and extension tubes deliver greater magnification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But if you\u2019re new to macro photography, a dedicated lens for your camera is the most convenient and versatile option that you have. A lot of popular macro lenses have focal lengths between 90 to 105mm and 1:1 magnification. Other lenses feature shorter focal lengths with shorter working distances. So they might need you to come closer to your subject as you shoot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bonus tip:<\/strong> If you plan on shooting flat objects such as coins, stamps, use a \u201cflat-field\u201d macro lens to ensure edge-to-edge sharpness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #2: Choose a suitable subject<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Macro<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Contrary to popular belief, not everything will make for a good macro subject. There are certain subjects that are indiscernible when viewed close up and without context\u2014and if your viewer can\u2019t understand what they\u2019re looking at when they see your macro shot, how can they appreciate it? But of course, this is all a question of preference and aesthetics. If the subject you photographed appears confusing in macro but is still aesthetically pleasing to the eyes, then it definitely qualifies as a suitable subject.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Common subjects include small insects<\/a>, butterflies, rain drops<\/a>, and small objects such as miniature dolls, jewelry<\/a>, and household items. Inanimate objects are fairly easy to photograph as they don\u2019t move, but insects and bugs can be a lot more challenging. One key tip for photographing them is to shoot from a safe distance to avoid scaring them off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #3: Pick the best location and weather<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"macro
Photo by \u0415\u0433\u043e\u0440 \u041a\u0430\u043c\u0435\u043b\u0435\u0432 on Unsplash<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Small bugs and insects are among the most interesting subjects in macro lens photography, as well as flowers and plants. Locations that have plenty of flowers and plants will give you many opportunities for macro shots. As for bugs and insects, these creatures are more active in warm outdoor temperatures. This means you should go out and shoot them at around 62\u00b0F (17\u00b0C) or warmer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s also great to capture insects in colder weather since they stay still in their habitat. A few macro enthusiasts travel to certain places early in the morning during summer so they can see and capture sleeping insects. You\u2019ll also get softer light with overcast weather, making it a much better climate than sunny conditions to capture macro images.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also, learn bug behavior. There are bugs that fly away when you come close to them, adapt to your presence within a few minutes, or completely ignore you. Shooting plenty of macro images is great for learning bug behavior: You\u2019ll easily predict your subject\u2019s next move when you do.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When photographing extremely thin objects like flowers or leaves, bright sunlight can be a difficult aspect to combat, as it can \u201cburn\u201d through your subject and cause hot spots, or parts of your image to be overexposed. Try shooting during cloudy days, utilizing shade, or creating shade as needed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #4: Get stable with a tripod<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"leaf
Photo by Scott Webb on Unsplash<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

You can control composition and eliminate the variable of a moving camera very simply: don\u2019t move it. Put it on a tripod, a bean bag, or a mini-pod so it goes nowhere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Whether you choose to shoot with a tripod<\/a>, a monopod<\/a>, or simply are careful to position yourself in an \u201canchored\u201d position, you should be conscious to steady your camera when shooting extremely close-up. The smallest unintentional shifts in framing can change an entire shot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #5: Use a longer focal length for living subjects<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Close<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Speaking of lenses, you may want to go for those that offer longer focal lengths, depending on your subject of choice. This allows you to “digitally” move in closer (without actually having to move closer) when photographing insects and objects close-up without disturbing them or disrupting their natural environment. The best focal length for these types of situations should be anything above 90mm, such as the Tokina atx-i 100mm F\/2.8 FF Macro Lens<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #6: Incorporate assistive accessories<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Colorful<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Even without a dedicated macro lens, you can achieve good macro shots with assistive accessories that can be incorporated into your macro kit. There\u2019s what they call a diopter<\/a>, which is also known as the \u201cpoor man\u2019s macro lens.\u201d It\u2019s basically close-up filter or magnifying glass that is screwed on to your regular lens or to any bridge or compact camera to achieve macro magnification without having to purchase a true macro lens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bellows<\/a> or tubes are the accordion-like, expandable part of a camera that helps achieve ultra-tight close ups on your subject. You can also get lens adapters<\/a> that allow you to reverse your lens and manually control the aperture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Instead of using a tripod, which can be quite restrictive for the photographer, you can use \u201cthird hand\u201d devices (anything you can create or devise with the available tools you have to create a literal “third hand”) for holding and supporting your subjects steadily and against your desired background.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #7: Customize your background<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Macro<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Shooting inanimate objects is fairly easy as you can have complete control over the positioning, lighting, and even your background. Simply place it against your desired background, depending on your composition, and make sure they don\u2019t clash with each other. Many photographers prefer to keep it simple by positioning their subject in front of a contrasting background that\u2019s located farther away from the subject, so it comes off as a beautiful background blur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you\u2019re spontaneously shooting outdoors, you may not have that much control over your background. However, you can change your perspective or maybe use that \u201cthird hand\u201d support for positioning your object, such as a leaf or flower, to face you from another angle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Remember that the eye naturally goes to the brightest spot in a photo, so if you are shooting in mixed light, be aware of what\u2019s in the background. You may need to change your point of view, get closer and fill the frame with your subject, or bring a sheet of plain paper or an 8\u00d710-inch print of generic, highlight-free foliage to hold behind your subject. You can also control background clutter by shooting at wider apertures, which reduces background focus, or using a ring light, which throws most backgrounds into darkness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Macro Photography Tip #8: Pay attention to your depth of field<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
\"Diamond<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Most people will advise you to use smaller apertures (a larger f-stop number) as this helps increase your depth of field<\/a> and ensure that the important parts of your subject are in sharp focus. However, the problem with using a smaller aperture is that the reduced and diffracted light can greatly affect the sharpness of your image. On the other hand, if you use too large of an aperture, you end up with less depth of field. This means that some parts of your subject may end up blurred out as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the hardest parts in doing macro photography is achieving the right balance between desired sharpness and depth of field. If you are able to shoot from a perspective or angle that allows you to fit the most important or interesting parts of your subject on a single plane of focus, which ensures that your subject remains sharp while still maintaining beautiful background bokeh<\/a>, then it’s all a matter of finding the largest aperture that will allow you to do that without leaving your subject blurred out in certain parts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Potential fix: Crop your image<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Or if you don’t mind cropping your image, you can also decrease your magnification and use a smaller aperture to ensure that all parts of your subject are sharp, then simply crop the photo to make your subject appear more magnified. However, a challenge in using smaller apertures is that it restricts more light from coming into the lens, which means you\u2019ll often need slower shutter speeds to be able to properly expose your shot. Depending on the photographer, the solution can be using a tripod for a steadier shot or using flash to add more light to the scene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Potential fix: Try focus stacking<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Another recommended solution to the problem of balancing depth of field and sharpness is focus stacking<\/a>, which is a built-in feature in a select number of cameras. If you don’t have this feature, it can also be accomplished in Photoshop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Focus Stacking Ep 107: Take & Make Great Photography with Gavin Hoey: Adorama Photography TV<\/div><\/div>
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