{"id":7161,"date":"2005-03-27T19:00:00","date_gmt":"2005-03-27T19:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/dev.wordpress\/?p=7161"},"modified":"2018-09-25T05:01:40","modified_gmt":"2018-09-25T09:01:40","slug":"messed-up-that-flash-shot-heres-how-to-fix-it","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/messed-up-that-flash-shot-heres-how-to-fix-it\/","title":{"rendered":"Messed up that flash shot? Here&#8217;s how to fix it!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"subtitle\">With today\u2019s great automatic flash gear, every shot should be technically perfect, right? Not really. Here are some real faux pas situations I\u2019ve experienced, plus a couple I set up just to show you what not to do!<\/p>\n<p>Autoexposure flash has been around since its introduction by Braun back in the 1970s. Basically, all auto-exposure flashes look at the light coming back from the scene and turn off the flash when it thinks enough light has been produced to adequately light the subject. But as good as autoexposure flash is, you need to be aware of your surroundings and the nature of your intended photo in order to avoid unexpected results.<\/p>\n<h5><span class=\"Jamesa\">Scenario 1: The shadowy lens hood.<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>Many cameras come with built-in flash units. In SLR\u2019s they\u2019re usually built into a flip-up housing atop the pentaprism. They all have the same limitation\u2014the flash is positioned quite low. This location really brings the flash too near to the camera\u2019s lens axis. Indeed, much has been written about the resultant redeye and the remedies for correcting your photos after the fact.<\/p>\n<p>But there is another gremlin that can bedevil your photos when using the built-in flash. Normally, using a lens hood is a good practice. It helps control glare from off-axis light sources striking your lens and lowering contrast or producing ghost images. Unfortunately, a lens hood can also partially block the light from your built-in flash, resulting in a half-moon shadow on the lower portion of your photos.<\/p>\n<p>This usually happens when you set the zoom lens to a wide angle setting\u2014for example when photographing a group in a limited space where you can\u2019t back up enough. The result&#8217;s in the photo at left.<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"\/alc\/wp-content\/uploads\/alc_images\/article8198_0.jpg\" alt=\"\" height=\"164\"><br \/>\nTo get around this problem, use an off-camera or shoe-mounted flash. Otherwise, pop off the lens hood or use a less wide zoom setting.<\/p>\n<h5><!-- <span class=\"Jamesa\">Scenario 2: What the heck is &#8220;MXV?&#8221;<\/span>\nMXV is not the name of a grunge rock band [although someone who calls himself <a href=\"http:\/\/www.punkvinyl.com\/blog\/bio.html\" mce_href=\"http:\/\/www.punkvinyl.com\/blog\/bio.html\" alt=\"new\">MXV<\/a> maintains the Punk Rock Vault! But I digress. Ed]. Actually, unless you&#8217;re a photographer with graying hair, you may never have been exposed to this acronym. These letters can be found on the lenses of many older cameras including 35mm, medium format and sheet film cameras.\n\nIn the past, you had the choice of using electronic flash or flashbulbs to light your subjects. Flashbulbs required a few milliseconds of burn time to get bright enough to be effective. Shutters of that era had a built-in delay to fire the flash a bit before the shutter actually opened. This was called M sync. At the X-sync setting, the flash fires instantaneously, with no delay. It&rsquo;s the proper setting to use with for electronic flash units. V is short for vorlauf, the German word for self-timer.\n\nThese three letters are seen side-by-side n to a tiny lever on older lenses such as the Hasselblad beauty shown here. You can move the lever to select between the types of flash sync or to engage the self-timer.\n\nOf course, nowadays you wouldn&rsquo;t deliberately set the lever to M unless you happened upon a cache of flashbulbs and wanted to experiment with them or actually use them to take photos. But you could accidentally move the lever to M after messing with the self-timer. The result would no flash exposure at all if you used an electronic flash!\n\nSome cautious photogs have had a skilled repairman install a block in the shutter mechanism so the lever can&rsquo;t be set M sync. I prefer to keep my lenses unfettered and just be careful.\n\nFor you younger photographers, here&rsquo;s a photo of a later-vintage flashbulb in a typical amateur folding flash unit from the &lsquo;60s. Before you laugh at the primitiveness of such an apparatus, bear in mind that bulbs half the size of the Press 5 bulb shown here deliver a whopping ISO 100 Guide Number of 190! Try to get that much light from an electronic flash of equivalent pocket-sized flash unit today!\n\nSuch items as this fan flash can be picked up for a couple of dollars or less at used photo equipment bazaars and flea markets. Even the obscure battery this fan flash uses is listed in last year&rsquo;s Radio Shack catalog as available as a special order item. &ldquo;New old stock&rdquo; flashbulbs can also be found by Googling &ldquo;flashbulbs&rdquo; on the Internet.\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/alc\/wp-content\/uploads\/alc_images\/article8198_1.jpg\" mce_src=\"\/alc\/wp-content\/uploads\/alc_images\/article8198_1.jpg\" height=\"350\">\n\n\n\n<p class=\"James\">\n\n--> <span class=\"Jamesa\">Scenario 2: Hey Dude! Where\u2019s your flash?<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>Here\u2019s one flub I experienced when using a non-automatic flash. I was tapped on the shoulder and asked to bring my laboratory camera from my engineering job to the company auditorium to take a picture of a noted senator who was scheduled to speak. I needed to be unobtrusive, so I positioned my self to the side of the stage against the curtains. An associate, who operated the sound system, was nearby.<\/p>\n<p>I held the company 4&#215;5 Super Graphic in one hand and a Graflex electronic flash unit in the other. I was about to take the first shot when the soundman poked me and informed me that my flash was actually blocked by the curtains! He saved my behind. Because of his alertness my photos came out fine.<\/p>\n<p>The moral: Don\u2019t get complacent. Check your basics thoroughly before making an important shot.<\/p>\n<h5><span class=\"Jamesa\">Scenario 3: Why didn\u2019t I see that!<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>On another occasion I was on the operations committee for the International Science Fair competition. I was taking photos of the guest speakers, which included Nobel laureates. The first shot seen here turned out OK. The second was a disaster! It doesn\u2019t take a genius to see what caused my auto flash to underexpose by several stops. Unfortunately, I didn\u2019t see the brass plaque before I took the shot. It was fairly dark in the auditorium and there were no significant reflections to make it stand out. My flash took care of that. The bright reflection really skunked my exposure by fooling the flash\u2019s auto-exposure system.<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"\/alc\/wp-content\/uploads\/alc_images\/article8198_2.jpg\" alt=\"\" height=\"272\"><\/p>\n<h5 class=\"James\"><span class=\"Jamesa\">Scenario 4: I see spots before his eyes.<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>This last situation is one you\u2019re likely to encounter pretty often\u2014whenever you take a flash shot of someone who\u2019s wearing glasses. With an on-camera or built-in flash you\u2019ll get white reflection spots on the glasses. They will be pretty near the center of the glasses, giving an unpleasant look. Sure, you can clone them out in Photoshop but not on slides.<\/p>\n<p>If you\u2019re using a studio flash and a soft-box or umbrella reflector, the modeling lights will make the reflections even larger, but at least you stand a good chance of seeing them before you take the shot. That way you can take corrective action first. Here\u2019s how.<\/p>\n<p>Use a little hand-held flash as your main or sole light source. Mine has a long sync cord I attach to my camera\u2019s PC outlet, but you can also used a slaved flash triggered by your camera\u2019s built-in flash, or fire it with a wireless control unit. Whichever method you use, hold the hand-held flash at arm\u2019s length above your head so the reflections move up and towards the edge of the eyeglass lenses.<\/p>\n<p>To further improve the shot, have the subject tilt his head slightly downward. Getting the flash off-camera will usually improve the overall lighting effect as well.<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"\/alc\/wp-content\/uploads\/alc_images\/article8198_3.jpg\" alt=\"\" height=\"350\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Autoexposure flash has been around since its introduction by Braun back in the 1970s. Basically, all auto-exposure flashes look at the light coming back from the scene and turn off the flash when it thinks enough light has been produced to adequately light the subject.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":17702,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[639,645,17770,17780],"tags":[655,207,318],"class_list":["post-7161","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-how-to","category-photography-645","category-photography","category-photography-tips","tag-adorama-655","tag-camera-207","tag-flash-318"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Messed up that flash shot? 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