{"id":77085,"date":"2021-12-07T10:00:35","date_gmt":"2021-12-07T15:00:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/?p=77085"},"modified":"2021-12-01T13:37:48","modified_gmt":"2021-12-01T18:37:48","slug":"camera-settings-for-nature-photography","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/camera-settings-for-nature-photography\/","title":{"rendered":"What Camera Settings Should I Use for Nature Photography?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nature photography encompasses a vast array of subject matter and shooting scenarios. Although, I’m going to limit this article to discussing camera settings for \u201cclassic\u201d landscape nature photography<\/a>.\u00a0 Much of what I mention can be incorporated into other genres, so it\u2019s worth learning the principles and reasoning behind the specific settings.<\/p>\n

Let me start by briefly discussing the gear I carry for most of my nature and landscape shots. I use a full-frame camera (Sony a7r IV<\/a>) along with an ultra-wide angle (Sony 16-35mm f\/2.8 GM<\/a>) lens and a standard\/mild telephoto (Sony 24-105mm f\/4 G<\/a>) lens. I also carry a sturdy tripod and various screw-on filters.<\/p>\n

Once you\u2019ve set up your system and decided on a composition, here are my recommended camera settings to capture the classic landscape photograph with a large depth of field and noise-free images.<\/p>\n

Recommended Camera Settings for Nature Photography<\/strong><\/h2>\n
    \n
  1. Choose Manual Exposure Mode<\/li>\n
  2. Choose a Narrow Aperture Value (e.g., f\/8 \u2013 f\/16)<\/li>\n
  3. Set ISO to Lowest Native Value (e.g., ISO 100)<\/li>\n
  4. Make Histogram Visible<\/li>\n
  5. Turn OFF Auto-Focus<\/li>\n
  6. Shoot in RAW Image File Format<\/li>\n
  7. Disable In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction<\/li>\n
  8. Turn Off Built-in Flash (if applicable)<\/li>\n
  9. Use a Remote Shutter Release<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \"\"
    Photo by Mahesh Thapa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Choose Manual Exposure Mode<\/h2>\n

    Nature photos are often taken during difficult and low-lighting conditions.\u00a0 Allowing the camera to decide the aperture, ISO, and shutter speed is a recipe for disaster. Most cameras will try to minimize shutter speed by opening the aperture to its maximum amount and bumping up the ISO. This can lead to noisy and shallow depth of field photos. Our goal is the exact opposite: large depth of field and noise-free images. In order to achieve this, we must manually set the three values of the exposure triangle.<\/p>\n

    Choose a Narrow Aperture Value<\/h2>\n

    To maximize depth of field<\/a>, we need a narrow aperture. I typically start at f\/8 and go as far as f\/16 on a full-frame camera. If you\u2019re using a crop-sensor camera, you may be able to get away with f\/5.6. However, I don\u2019t recommend closing the aperture more than f\/16 on full frame and f\/11 on crop sensors because you can introduce unwanted diffraction-associated softness to the image. There are exceptions to this rule, but it\u2019s a good place to start.<\/p>\n

    Set ISO to Lowest Native Value (e.g., ISO 100)<\/h2>\n

    The lowest native ISO value ensures you\u2019re maximizing the sensor\u2019s dynamic range and minimizing noise. Be careful to not choose an ISO value lower than the native ISO (i.e., extended ISO values), because you\u2019ll be sacrificing dynamic range.<\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Photo by Mahesh Thapa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Make Histogram Visible<\/h2>\n

    The histogram is basically a way for you to make sure your image will be properly exposed. Once you\u2019ve set the aperture and ISO values, the histogram will indicate if your image is properly exposed or not. You\u2019ll set your shutter speed based on the appearance of the histogram. If the histogram is displaced to the extreme left, it means the image will be too dark (underexposed). Conversely, an overexposed image will have the histogram shifted way to the right.\u00a0 Try to keep the histogram centered. I like using the histogram because relying on how the image looks on the back of the LCD screen for proper exposure can be misleading \u2014 especially during very bright conditions.<\/p>\n

    Turn Off Auto-Focus<\/h2>\n

    In order to maximize depth of field, you typically want to manually focus about 1\/3 of the way into the scene. If you use auto focus, the camera might not choose the correct focus point or may hunt for focus because of low light. By using manual focus, you\u2019re deciding exactly where the focus position will be.<\/p>\n

    Shoot in RAW Image File Format<\/h2>\n

    I\u2019ve always said: shoot in RAW because memory is cheap, but memories are priceless. \u00a0Yes, RAW format uses much more space than JPEG on your memory card, but aren\u2019t your memories worth it?\u00a0 RAW allows you to adjust important parameters such as white balance, noise suppression, exposure, saturation, and many others during post-processing.<\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Photo by Mahesh Thapa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Disable In-Camera Long Exposure Noise Reduction<\/h2>\n

    If Long Exposure Noise Reduction is left on, you\u2019ll have to wait twice as long to take your next shot. For example, let\u2019s say the exposure time is 20 seconds. You would have to wait an additional 20 seconds after the camera finishes capturing the image before you could take another shot. With modern sensors, there\u2019s no reason to leave this setting on.<\/p>\n

    Turn Off Build-in Flash<\/h2>\n

    Many cameras have built-in flash and, unless you turn it off manually, it might engage during low-light conditions.\u00a0 Since you\u2019re controlling the light with manual settings, there\u2019s no reason to have the built-in flash turned on or set to auto.<\/p>\n

    \"\"
    Photo by Mahesh Thapa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    Use a Remote Shutter Release<\/h2>\n

    Once everything is ready, the last step is to use a remote shutter release to trigger the exposure. You may need to go into your camera settings and enable this feature if you\u2019re using a wireless remote. Using a remote allows you to maximize image sharpness by making sure no camera shake is introduced by physically touching the shutter button.\u00a0 If you don\u2019t have a remote with you, using the camera\u2019s timer function is the next best option. You\u2019ll have to touch the shutter button, but with a long enough delay (I recommend at least 3 seconds), any shake\/vibration you cause will have dampened away.<\/p>\n

    These are some fundamental recommendations to help you capture amazing nature shots.<\/a>\u00a0If you implement these camera settings for nature photography outings, they will become second nature!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Nature photography encompasses a vast array of subject matter and shooting scenarios. Although, I’m going to limit this article to discussing camera settings for \u201cclassic\u201d landscape nature photography.\u00a0 Much of what I mention can be incorporated into other genres, so it\u2019s worth learning the principles and reasoning behind the specific settings. Let me start by […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":11111166,"featured_media":77087,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[17770,17779,17780,17781],"tags":[8682,2153,6724],"class_list":["post-77085","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-photography","category-photography-101","category-photography-tips","category-travel-photography","tag-camera-settings","tag-landscape-photography-2153","tag-nature-photography-6724"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWhat Camera Settings Should I Use for Nature Photography? - 42West<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Once you\u2019ve set up your system and decided on a composition, here are our recommended camera settings to capture the nature photography.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" 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