{"id":90143,"date":"2022-11-09T10:00:31","date_gmt":"2022-11-09T15:00:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/?p=90143"},"modified":"2022-11-16T11:38:45","modified_gmt":"2022-11-16T16:38:45","slug":"canon-r5-camera-settings","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.adorama.com\/alc\/canon-r5-camera-settings\/","title":{"rendered":"Best Canon R5 Camera Settings for Photography"},"content":{"rendered":"\r\n

Since the launch of the Canon R5 Camera<\/a>, I have found it indispensable for my work as a professional photographer. I specialize in fashion and beauty studio photography, and working with this mirrorless camera has allowed me to work faster and smarter. As you likely know, Canon mirrorless cameras have a lot of options to customize and control settings. Therefore, it may be hard to know where to start. In this article, I’m going to share the most important settings that I utilize on my Canon R5 Camera \u2014 particularly when working in a studio.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Image Quality<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

I shoot all of my work in RAW. Shooting in RAW will provide more flexibility in my files and more information. This is essential for my color grading,<\/a> or perfecting exposure and white balance after the fact.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

White Balance<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Typically I\u2019ll select the appropriate white balance preset for the situation I\u2019m shooting (i.e.\u00a0flash in studio). I also utilize a Calibrite Colorchecker Passport to give me a neutral reference point. This is invaluable for achieving consistent white balance and flattering skin tones. I never shoot on auto white balance because it is too inconsistent and sometimes will change in unpredictable ways.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"
Photo by Lindsay Adler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Picture Style<\/strong><\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

By default, I select a picture style of \u201cstandard.” Although, I also will choose “monochromatic” when on location if I’m intending the end result to be in black and white.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

I always shoot with an image quality of RAW, so the picture style does not change the image I am taking. It only adjusts the JPG preview I\u2019m seeing in my camera. As soon as I pop it over into Lightroom<\/a> or CaptureOne, the file will still have all the original information. In other words, this setting is only adjusting your preview, not the end result.<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Manual Exposure Mode<\/h2>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

I almost always shoot in manual exposure mode, whether in the studio or on location. On location, I use my electronic viewfinder with exposure simulation (see below) to help me achieve accurate exposures. Shooting in manual allows me to be precise and to “outsmart” my camera when I am going for a more creative exposure approach. Sometimes I like to vastly over or under expose the shot for creative effect. Manual allows me to make these decisions.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

In the studio with strobes, I always shoot manual (100 percent of the time). I shoot tethered and check the histogram<\/a> for accurate exposures, and periodically use a light meter. I am in control of the light in the studio, so there is no benefit to another exposure mode.\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

\"\"
Photo by Lindsay Adler<\/figcaption><\/figure>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Exposure simulation:<\/strong><\/h4>\r\n

\r\n\r\n<\/h4>\r\n