Shopper : Hi folks. I have only ever used Ilford developers and chemicals and never paid too much attention to the technical details of developing. I just mixed the chemical to water ratio and away I went. With Kodak developer I see "solution A" and "B". Is this just a way to identify the mix ratio/times/temps for particular types of film?
I am looking forward to trying the legendary hc-110. I picked up some Ilford HP-5 Plus and with any luck I can make some results. ThanksERAN S : With this one there are several options to dilute the product. it all depends on the results you want to achieve. I suggest you read the label and decide which one to use.
I used dilution B and I think you should start with it and see how it goes.C J : HC-110 developer is usually mixed in a "stock" solution (the '2-gallon' size, 16 oz, bottle is mixed with water to make 2 qts of stock) and then the other dilutions, such as "B" are made from that as the "working solution"--these working solutions allow longer development times for some films (this is a fast working developer).
For instance, the B dilution development time for Tri-x (4164) is 4.5 to 5 minutes compared to only 3 min w/ dilution A (@68 deg)
I've never tested HC-110 w/ HP-5 so I can't comment on that...
Hope this is helpfulRICHARD S : There's a technical document available from Kodak's website that explains the various dilutions. Alternately, there are a number of websites dedicated to the use of hc-100. You can find them easily enough.
Judge for yourself the merits of what you read at any website, but in essence, Yes, the dilutions A or B are used for different types of film or paper. There are dilutions through letter G, I believe, but A and B are the most common.PATRICK S : I have only used HC 110 as Dilution B with Kodak and Illford films with excellent results. The manufactures seem to recommend Dilution B for normal processing results.JASON F : This developer can be mixed in a variety of ways for different effects with different films. The standard dilution is B, and I recommend you start with that. Follow the directions on the bottle, or dilute 1:31 directly from the syrup. Good luck!SEAN M : This is the be-all/end-all of information on HC-110: covingtoninnovations(dot)com(slash)hc110
If that doesn't answer your question, I don't know what will. ;-)YAN X : water:solutionB 7:1 68F
You can find develop time on
digitaltruth
Shopper : oh, thank you very much for answer my question, by the way, I've got 3 bottle for this one, HC100, but all of them are expired, between 2009 - 2010, how do you think can result the film if I use them?, sorry, if my english isn't good enough.J M : I was using expired HC110 for a short time until it ate its way out of the bottle and leaked out! The only difference I can detect between the old and new is less grain or more appropriately, you get the grain you expect from the film with the new. I scan my negs, not sure of the difference with wet printing. To sum it up, for the cost buy new! Hope that helps. JWANDREW S : Depends on how you've stored it, I think. In my experience, HC-110 is stable practically forever if stored in a stoppered bottle, and in that case I've had good luck using it well past the expiry date. If you've got a partial bottle that's been exposed to air for significant time, I'm not sure.MARK P : If you kept the bottles sealed, you should not notice any difference in developing times by comparison with unexpired HC-110. However, I would advise running a development test to make sure.BRETT M : you can use them as long as they are still unopened and no water has been mixed with the concentrate. even if it has been opened, it is probably just fine.
this stuff will last for years and a lot of people have had success with it after even 4 years of sitting in the bottle.
definitely do a test roll or sheets, but i think that you should be a ok.
have a rad one!JOEL A : HC-110 is well known for its keeping properties, so it should be fine to use at your standard strength. Test on a roll first though, just in case. GEORGE G : Unopened bottles usually work fine for far longer than Kodak's expiration. Just try some film and see.
Shopper : how many rolls can I develop with this one? thank youMARC M : it depends on several things. which size roll. what asa, temperature,how it is stored between use. it is a wonderful product but only you can answer that question.LES M : At the moment, I mix the soup as directed for stock solution. Then I mix that solution 1:7 for type B dilution. However, a photographer sent me information about HC 110 that you may find useful:
I dilute HC-110 (and Rodinal) 1+49 for all films because it is easier to measure with a metric graduate (10 or 25 ml). A 1+49 dilution is very close to Kodak dilution E 1+47 and so you can use the times recommended for this dilution. I don't know if you are familiar with the Covington Unofficial HC-110 website but it contains a lot of useful information and instructions for dilutions other than dil B. For the two speeds ISO 100 (Eastman 5231) and 400 (Eastman 5222) that I use the times are 7 and 8.5 minutes @ 21 C respectively. For a single roll SS tank this would be 5 ml concentrate made up to 250 ml with water.
I'm trying to get away from mixing the basic solution and having it sit around for awhile. But mixing the stick 1:7 enables me to develop four 35mm rolls in a stainless steel tank. I have never calculated how much film I could process, but a lot!TIMOTHY S : I mix it 1/2 oz of the HC110 to 16 oz of water for each roll of 120 or 2 rolls of 35mm, so the full bottle of HC110 will give you many many rolls of film developed.ALDO A : A lot!-- I know that's not an answer, but it all depends of the dilution you are using. It's not an exact number it can be anything between 50 or even 100.
