Whether you’re shooting models on a runway for big, chaotic events such as Fashion Week, or you’re doing fashion shoots in your own studio where you can control everything, here is a guide to the gear you’ll need.
Fashion photography is fun and hectic, and sometimes it’s a pressure cooker as you work to get the photos right in camera no matter what the lighting conditions, and then send the images to your client (which could be a magazine or newspaper, ad agency, designer, fashion house, or model) under tight deadlines. If you thrive under pressure and have mastered color and light, you could do well, but you’ll have plenty of competition. Here are the tools you’ll need to get it right the first time.
(See fashion expert Sandy Ramirez’s Fashion Photography Primer article for an overview, and for basic camera and lens suggestions; read on to learn how to accessorize intelligently.)
Here are several items that will help you get the job done better
For studio photography:
Light Meter: You are in control; use a flash meter to get the exposure right. Flash meters can be inexpensive models such as the Interfit Photographic FM-10, which captures incident and reflected light and costs $48.50, the mid-range Sekonic L-308S Flashmate, which captures flash and ambient exposures with accuracy to 1/10 of a stop and costs $194 at Adorama, or the spare-no-expense Kenko KCM-3100, which at the Adorama price of $799 not only measures flash and ambient light, but will also give you exact color temperature readings so you can custom-set your camera’s white balance to match the scene—important when trying to match the colors of the clothing you are photographing.
Monolights: A set of monolights with modeling lights will give you the fine control you need for your studio assignment. Start with a pair of lights and build from there. The Flashpoint Classic Umbrella Duo-Light 1220M 2 MonoLight Kit , is a well thought out kit will give that will give you the tools to create amazing portraits, fashion and beauty studies and even event group photography. You can add additional monolights over time.
Beauty Dish: A Beauty Dish reflects the direct flash into a larger, circular shape that creates a larger, more flattering light. In most cases, Beauty dishes are designed for use with specific lights or brands, and most are designed for studio lights. Some, like the Flashpoint 21-inch Soft Reflector Beauty Dish, is compatible with any Monolight. The Interfit Photographic Mini Reflector/Beauty Dish is compatible with shoe-mount flashes.
Ring Light: While most Ring Lights are designed for macro photography and have relatively weak light output, fashion shooters have adapted a handful of ring lights for a shadowless look and the donut-shaped reflection that shows in the model’s eyes in. The secret is to work fairly close. The Orbis Ring Flash Attachment ($199 at Adorama) fits around your shoe-mount flash and redirects the light into a circle around your lens, giving your photos the ring-flash look.
Tripod: Gain precise control over camera angle via a tripod. You may already have one, but if you don’t, the Velbon GEO E535D Carbon Fiber Tripod with a PHD-53D Pan/Tilt head, at $389.95 Adorama, is a sturdy workhorse.
Reflectors: Fill in those shadows and bounce light into your subject’s face or to illuminate the latest style being worn by using a reflector. Get a few inexpensive ($24.95) Glow 42-inch 5-in-1 reflectors (they can also double as diffusers), which will give you a flexible variety of light-redirecting options.
You’ll need a background and background stand. Start simple with a basic Seamless White backdrop. The Flashpoint 10-foot Background Support Stand with White Seamless paper background, exclusively available at Adorama for $100 even, is a good way to get started. As you learn, your sets may become more sophisticated and include props and furniture, or you may end up taking your set on location.
For fashion shows:
While you can control almost all facets of your images in a studio, shooting the runway at a fashion show is the opposite. There will be other photographers tussling for the best spot, and models are almost constantly in motion. You may be at the mercy of the provided light—or may be able to use your own flash, depending on the venue’s rules. Be prepared to shoot fast and adapt to different environments!
Monopod: Runways tend to be crowded affairs and there certainly won’t be space for you to set up a tripod, but you may be able to shoot with a monopod. Bring a small one such as the 3Pod PM3A, available exclusively from Adorama for $69.95, with a ball head.
Vertical grip: You’ll be shooting mostly vertical format, so you might as well set up for maximum comfort. If there is one available for your camera, a vertical camera grip can help. Most vertical grips double as power packs, and that’s fine: The extra battery power means you can keep shooting without having to stop and change batteries as often. You can find the vertical grip for your camera here.
Flash: Bring a flash but if the venue says don’t use it, honor that rule or you will be removed. If you are allowed to use a flash, a good strong one, along with a diffuser, will help you a lot. Search for compatible shoe-mount flashes here.
Bracket: Alternatively, a bracket that lets you quickly flip flash and camera from horizontal to vertical mode may make your rig a bit bulkier, but gives you flexibility. It also elevates your flash higher above your lens to reduce the chance of redeye. The Flashpoint Camera Flip Flash Bracket is a popular, low-cost ($39.95) option. You can connect your flash to your camera via either a hardwire or wireless transmitter such as the RadioPopper Nano Set.
Another great option is the Flashpoint Rotating Camera Flip-Flash Bracket With Integrated Anti Twist Plate. This bracket allows you to smoothly rotate almost any SLR camera 90°, even those with add-on power grips, for vertical or horizontal shots, while keeping the flash stationary above the camera, maintaining the look of your lighting.
There are plenty of other things that won’t fit in your toolkit but as you advance you will need: A makeup artist and hair stylist, appropriately selected models, an art director, props (per the Art Director) and a crew. Start simply, try out different local experts as you build your portfolio and business. Consider joining Model Mayhem to find other like-minded models and specialists who are breaking into the field.
